Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
