🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.